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PITIGLIANO

Pitigliano seems to have just come out of a fairy tale: a city carved so deeply into the tufa rock that it is impossible to understand where the work of man ends and that of nature begins. The effect is stunning, especially at night when the spotlights hidden in the wisteria make the city appear as if it were suspended in the air. Pitigliano is the first and most famous of the three Tuff Cities.

Beyond the city walls, Pitigliano is an enchanting labyrinth of streets, alleys, terraces and panoramic views… a true marvel!

The area has been inhabited since the 12th century BC. C. There are some spectacular paths in the surrounding countryside through which you can admire this prehistoric history and also walk the vie cave, built centuries later by the Etruscans (ask the tourist office for a map, + 39 0564 617111). According to the stories, Etruscan Pitigliano was destroyed by the ferocious king of Chiusi, Lars Porsenna, during his march to attack Rome. According to the stories, Etruscan Pitigliano was destroyed by the ferocious king of Chiusi, Lars Porsenna, during his march to attack Rome. In 385 BC. C., Petilio and Ciliano stole the golden crown from the statue of Jupiter Stator in Rome. Fearing retaliation, they hid in Maremma and founded a city called Petiliano. In the Renaissance era, Pitigliano was then nicknamed Little Jerusalem. For almost four centuries it housed a growing Jewish community, with the blessing of its rulers, the Orsini counts. Fleeing persecution, the Italian Jews
they found help in Pitigliano and returned the favor by sharing their cultural heritage. In fact, Pitigliano is famous for its Goym cuisine, which is a delicious fusion of traditional Jewish and Italian flavors.
Pitigliano is also one of the few places in the Maremma that still speaks a dialect, that of Giubbonai.
There is a small parking lot in the valley just before Pitigliano, which is the best place to enjoy an overview of the whole city and its incredible tuff outcrop.

Tourist office: piazza Garibaldi ( + 39 0564 617111)

WHAT SEE

Republic square
Pitigliano begins with a well-preserved arch known as “La Porta”, which tells the story of the city’s greatest governors through their coats of arms. Have you noticed the suspicious, dog-like animal looking at you? It is believed to be a bear, symbol of the Orsini family, but the unknown Maremma sculptor had never seen a bear, so he had to make a hypothesis.
Follow via Cavour, bordered by 13 gigantic stone arches, which are the remains of the Medici aqueduct, built by the Orsini in the 16th century, at the request of citizens who asked for pure water. The water flowed from the aqueduct to two fountains located in Piazza della Repubblica. The fountain of the Seven Spouts is still visible today.
This fine example of Renaissance art includes a weary-eyed bear watching over the flowing water. At the other end of the square, a bronze statue by the modern sculptor Vinci pays homage to the most precious asset of the Pitigliano area, his donkey. It is called al villanu, a dialect word for “peasant”.
The Orsini palace dominates the square. The original 11th century fortress was a project by the Aldobrandeschi, built only to defend the
most discovered point of Pitigliano. When the Orsini took over the government, they transformed it into a real medieval castle. At the entrance, a statue
of a bear/lion hybrid commemorates the marriage that took place in the 13th century between Anastasia Aldobrandeschi and Romano Gentile Orsini. The statue once had an identical companion, who was destroyed during the riots against the law of the ius primae noctis, which allowed the Orsini counts to spend their wedding night with all their subjects. Go to the picturesque courtyard of the building with its Renaissance well to visit two museums in Pitigliano.

Palazzo Orsini Museum

The frescoed rooms of this museum house a collection of religious treasures. Among them are the solid gold door of a 16th-century tabernacle and a statue of the Madonna and Child by the Sienese artist Jacopo della Quercia. Sculpted on the facade of the palace are the words time, order, number, measurement, which were added by Niccolò Orsini (page 173) in the 15th century as a reminder to the Pitigliano people that, if they had acted correctly, their taxes would not have increased for 40 years.

archaeological Museum

With only four rooms, the nearby Archaeological Museum of Pitigliano is easy to visit and interesting enough to capture even the attention of children. Its most significant pieces are the large bucchero vases from the 7th and 6th centuries BC. C., used by the Etruscans to mix water and wine. After being fired without oxygen to obtain that unmistakable black colour, the vases were decorated with faces and floral motifs and coated with a lacquer that still shines today. At the center of the museum is a glass-walled room from where you can observe the archaeologists at work.

Old Town

The historic center of Pitigliano begins in via Zuccarelli with its small shops selling handcrafted tools, children’s toys and home-made preserves. Halfway up is the Romanesque cathedral of Pitigliano, dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, whose statues stand guard at either end of the rather showy Baroque facade. Inside, the interesting mix of blue, orange and red tiles is an affront to the Pitigliano eye, but it has a certain amount of magnificence. Locals prefer the Church of Santa Maria, built in the 12th century and known colloquially as San Rocco, near the intersection of via del Corso and via Zuccarelli. Every August 16, the elderly women of Pitigliano celebrate the feast of their patron saint by baking large trays of biscuits to share with everyone in this churchyard. The facade of the church features a Gothic style bas-relief representing a nobleman with his hands in the mouths of two ferocious dragons, an image that symbolizes the power of spiritual strength against brute force.
Inside, the church has large arches, a high ceiling and a simple line that reflects the 12th-century belief that elaborate decorations would distract the faithful from the sermon. Above the altar there are nine coats of arms to commemorate the subsequent renovations; it is extremely rare for a church to host the coats of arms of bishops, let alone those of noble families. The largest insignia, in the centre, belongs to Pope Pius IX; to its right is that of the house of Lorraine, below that of the Medici, while above, that of the house of Savoy. The four coats of arms with green tassels belong to the local bishops.

Jewish ghetto

In the 16th century, Pitigliano became a safe haven for Italian Jews fleeing persecution from the nearby Papal State. In the following years, the community became an integral part of the city’s economy and culture, so much so that the Orsini counts defied papal law by refusing to put a gate on their ghetto. Abandoned shortly after the Second World War, the ghetto was transformed into an open-air museum in 1995. Now you can explore its picturesque streets on your own or on an hour-long guided tour. The community built its houses and shops directly on the tuff spur, so almost all the rooms are underground. They include the ritual bath, the kosher cellar, the butcher’s shop and the bakery with its original unleavened bread oven. At street level, the Jewish Museum displays ancient artifacts used during religious holidays, as well as circumcision tools
medieval paintings and prints of Jewish life in the 15th and 16th centuries.
Outside there is the splendid synagogue, originally built in 1598, then collapsed and rebuilt in 1995. On the ceiling, the 10 commandments were written in a free flowing blue letter.

CURIOSITY'

Niccolo Orsini

The Orsini family was a large Roman family that gave birth to cardinals, popes, lords, assassins and the murdered. He took over from the Aldobrandeschi in 1293 and ruled over an increasingly smaller portion of the Maremma until he sold everything to the Medici in 1604. Count Niccolò Orsini (1442-1510) is considered a bright spark in what was an otherwise dissolute and tyrannical family. He was an honest man and one of Italy’s best military strategists. Niccolò’s insignia represents two hands tied by a crown of thorns; his motto was: “Better to die than to betray”.
The best place to see this sign is above the entrance door of the Palazzo Orsini Museum.

Eviction of Pitigliano

The sfratto is a thin wine-scented biscuit, which has become the symbol of the Jewish community of Pitigliano. In the seventeenth century, Medici soldiers had to knock on the door of the city’s ghetto to let the Jews know that they had to go back to their homes for the evening closure. The eviction was modeled after the truncheons used by these soldiers, and was a way for the Jewish community to make something good out of such a brutal law. The biscuit is now a regional delicacy and is available in every local bakery.

HOW TO GET TO PITIGLIANO

Pitigliano is a municipality in the province of Grosseto, a city from which it is about 80 kilometers away. Pitigliano is also located 190 kilometers from Florence, 485 kilometers from Milan and 155 kilometers from Rome.

How to reach Pitigliano by car:

  • From the north: A1 towards Rome, take the exit for Orvieto, then SS71 towards Bolsena, then SS2 Cassia and finally SS74 towards Pitigliano.
  • From the south: GRA in the direction of Florence, once in Rome take the A1 motorway, take the Orte exit and follow the signs for Viterbo and then on the SS74 in the direction of Pitigliano.
  • From Rome: Rome-Civitavecchia motorway, continue following the signs for Grosseto, exit at Albinia and continue on the SS74 following the signs for Manciano-Pitigliano.

How to reach Pitigliano by train:

The main railway stations are those of Albinia 50 kilometers, Orbetello 57 kilometers, Viterbo 57 kilometers and Grossrto 80 kilometers.

WHERE TO EAT

Pitigliano boasts an extraordinary food and wine variety of dishes and wines linked to the Maremma and Tuscan tradition, in the alleys of its historic center or in the countryside you can savor excellent typical dishes. Outside the village, in the Pantalla area, there is one of the most characteristic places in Pitigliano, theHosteria Pantalla, welcoming family-run inn, products of local origin, Loc Pantalla SP25 Pitigliano/Farnese km6 – tel. 0564616117, in Collina there is instead the La Collina restaurant, a splendid location also for weddings and ceremonies, the pizza prepared with a wood oven is also excellent, Loc. Hill 57428 – tel. 3929886976. In the center of Pitigliano there is the Corte del Ceccottino, at the foot of the bell tower in Piazza San Gregorio, a small characteristic tavern, Via Vignoli – tel. 0564615423. Trattoria Il Grillo is a very particular place, with truly beautiful stone rooms, and the dishes offered are also excellent, Via Cavour 18 – tel. 0564615202. For a quick break, the Delizie di Ale e Helga is certainly the ideal solution, excellent platters with cold cuts and cheeses, Via Roma 130 – tel. 0564615576.

EVENTS

The Torch of St. Joseph

March 19th

This festival is a perfect fire show to chase away the ghosts of winter. Every year, a gigantic wooden puppet is set up in Piazza Garibaldi. The puppet is shaped like a grotesque demon with sharp teeth and angry eyes. It represents the end of winter, the invernacciu, in dialect. By burning it, men perform a propitiatory act for the spring harvest. Once the puppet is burned, the women collect the still smoking pieces as a good luck charm.

Open Cellars

An unmissable appointment for the last weekend of May for tastings of local Pitigliano wines. Some important Pitigliano wineries are participating.

Flowered

To celebrate Corpus Domini, the streets of the town are decorated with drawings made of flowers and leaves, wonderful sacred representations and colorful images cheer up the village… after the solemn ceremony it is tradition to prune a flower at home.

Farmer’s Day

Traditional and unmissable event that celebrates the peasant tradition of Pitigliano, with tractor parades, games, music and dances and a final banquet featuring typical Maremma dishes and products.

Goblets of Stars

On the night of San Lorenzo, eyes lifted up to see the mysterious shooting stars and palates cheered up by the excellent Maremma wines, with performances by various musical groups in the streets of the village.

County Festival

Characteristic and unmissable event that takes place every year on the third weekend of August, a wonderful journey through time between parades in period costumes, traditional dishes and lots of music.

September of Wine

First weekend of September

Maremma is famous all over the world for its typical products, the wines in particular are one of the excellences of this area, and in this area Pitigliano represents one of the most important realities. The Cantina Sociale di Pitigliano produces excellent wines which are celebrated every year during one of the most anticipated events, the SettembrediVino, a wine cellar festival which is celebrated in the alleys of the historic center of Pitigliano.

Christmas

To celebrate the most magical moment of the year together, the Christmas village comes back to life in Pitigliano, with Santa’s house, the skating post and much more!