The Maremmani have always had a great affinity with Mount Amiata. Situated in a ring around an extinct volcano, the area’s six nature parks passionately and extensively bring together the environmental wealth of the entire province. At the base of the volcano are fields full of wildflowers in summer and rust-colored leaves in autumn. In winter, snow-dusted oaks and chestnut trees populate its forests. In spring, when the snow melts, wildflowers return to bloom and Mount Amiata is once again filled with a charm of “sweet shade and silver springs,” as Pope Pius II wrote.
Visitors are attracted by the long ski slopes at the summit of Mount Amiata, 1,738 meters above sea level, and the abundance of chestnuts, truffles and porcini mushrooms offered by the forests along its slopes.
Man has inhabited Mount Amiata since prehistoric times. For the Etruscans, it was the sacred home of one of their most important deities, Tinia. Less than half a century ago, most of the local population worked in dark and dangerous mines: in fact, in 1910, a quarter of the world’s mercury came from Mount Amiata. When the mines closed, the mountain villages sank into poverty.
This area still remains the poorest in the Maremma, but also the least pretentious. Tradition is everything in these mountain villages, and Amiatinians organize the most authentic festivals, tell the best stories and serve the most hearty dishes. Like the mountains themselves, these local dishes are little known, rustic and based on the cycle of the seasons.
NOT TO BE MISSED
– Visit the ruins of David Lazzaretti’s Jurisdavidic Tower on Mt. Labbro, 2 hours.
– Getting lost among the enchanting sculptures of the
Garden of Daniel Spoerri
, half day.
– A sampling of Maremma’s best desserts at Corsini Patisserie in
Castel del Piano
, half an hour.
– Ski or just walk along the slopes of the Mount Amiata ski resort, all day long.
– Admire the 1,000-year-old stalactites (and 2,000 bats) of Sassocolato Cave near
Castell’Azzara
, 1 hour.
– Discover the mining history of Mt. Amiata at the
Mercury Mining Museum
of
Santa Fiora
, half an hour.
ITINERARY
If you’ve planned to spend a weekend in Mt. Amiata, start early at
Santa Fiora
, exploring the Renaissance garden of the Peschiera. If you can, take a trip to the springs of the Aqueduct, that is, the place of origin of much of the Maremma’s water supply.
Otherwise, head to Arcidosso to see the
David Lazzaretti Study Center.
, a fascinating museum about the local 19th-century prophet who proclaimed himself the second messiah after Jesus. If Lazzaretti is not your thing, go in search of wild deer, donkeys and gray wolves at the
Mount Amiata Wildlife Park
. The next day, enjoy breakfast at the famous Corsini Patisserie in
Castel del Piano
before visiting the town’s remarkable art gallery. In the afternoon, decide whether to see the spectacular sculpture garden by
Daniel Spoerri in Seggiano
or immerse yourself in the medieval charm of
Campagnatico
.
FEATURED: Montecucco DOC
Montecucco DOC takes its name from a lonely hill called Monte Cucco, where this grape variety originated. The most popular variety is the red, known for its tannins and woody aromas, which go well with ragu, as well as with grilled meats and acquacotta. True connoisseurs can follow the Montecucco Wine Trail through the area’s best vineyards, restaurants and wine shops. The trail will also take you to the Vigneto Museo, a 200-year-old vineyard that preserves Mount Amiata’s native vines, which date back to the 8th century B.C. C. It’s also worth checking out the Vine and Wine Museum (Piazza Centrale, Montenero d’Orcia; access upon request; +39 0564 969602, free of charge) if you want to learn more about the area’s wine traditions. Cinigiano celebrates Montecucco at the October Grape Festival.
The Mount Labbro Provincial Nature Reserve embraces all six of Mount Amiata’s nature parks. A number of official hiking trails cover the 600-hectare reserve, which is particularly famous for its monumental old-growth trees. At Poggio all’Olmo (Monticello Amiata; +39 0564 969611), there is a particularly rare mandolin pear tree over 10 meters tall, while in the reserve WWF of Bosco Rocconi (State Road 323, Roccalbegna, by request only; +39 0564 898828), you can see some of Europe’s rarest bird species, such as the lanner falcon and hen harrier. The most famous park in the area is the
Mount Amiata Wildlife Park
(Podere de’ Nobili, Arcidosso, closed Mondays; +39 0564 966867; €3.50). The park is home to the Apennine wolf, a beautiful gray wolf species, as well as the home of David Lazzaretti’s utopian community. After his death, the buildings fell into disrepair, but it is still worth a look if you feel like taking a hike of about half an hour to the summit of the mountain. Vipers are a real risk throughout the reserve, so equip yourself with closed, sturdy shoes. For maps, tour guides and to learn more about the reserve ask at any tourist office.