CASTEL DEL PIANO
“..Castel del Piano..for the beauty of the place, for the convenience of the pleasant position, it is undoubtedly the first among those located on that side… (Pope Pius II)
Castel del Piano is the city of painters or, more precisely, of a famous family of painters, the Nasini. In fact, for generations, Francesco, Antonio and Giuseppe Nicola Nasini have worked in almost every church on Mount Amiata. Even when the family’s talent died out, the Casteldelpianesi carried on their infatuation with the finer things in life and are still known for their keen artistic sense. On the street corners, bookshops and cheerful ceramic shops crowd the historic center of the city, while the large buildings dispel any doubts that this is just another mountain village. The town’s spacious, tree-lined squares overlook the magnificent view of Montegiovi and the Val d’Orcia, which lie beyond the borders of the Maremma.
Tourist Office: via Amiata 1, Cinigiano (0564 992777)
NOT TO BE MISSED
CHURCH OF THE PROPOSITION
HISTORY
Although it is confirmed that the origins of Castel del Piano date back to the Paleolithic, Neolithic and Etruscan times, the town has its roots in 890, when it was known as Casale Plana, an outpost of the Abbey of Mount Amiata. In 1479 the city was destroyed and forced to submit to the Republic of Siena. The inhabitants thus felt indebted to their foreign rulers, who provided a large percentage of the army that fought to repel Cosimo I de’ Medici’s claims to the city in 1559.
TO BE SEEN
THE MODERN CENTER
The Castel del Piano tour begins in the Rimembranza park. This place is the favorite refuge of locals who want to enjoy the cool winds that blow from the mountain.
To the right in Piazza della Madonna are the most important churches of Castel del Piano. The construction of the Opera Church began in the 15th century and was completed only in 1870. It is often closed in winter, so ask the tourist office for mass times. Its decorated façade dating back to the 19th century opens onto a beautiful interior. The painting closest to the altar is by Domenico Manetti, son of the Sienese painter Rutilio. We see San Cerbone looking favorably at the victory of the local 17th century baron, General Tommaso Cerboni, the probable commissioner of the work. The Nasini are well represented in this church. There are three paintings by Giuseppe Nicola Nasini, while his father Francesco created the Virgin between Saints Nicholas and Michael in the 17th century.
Next door, the Church of the Madonna delle Grazie stands out for its dazzling peperino exterior. The facade is characterized by a small niche which, as the inscription states, was used for the “collection of ransom offerings for Christian slaves” (1656). The interior is dominated by the main altar, a stunning baroque creation in faux white marble. The most famous painting of Castel del Piano is located above the altar, created by the Sienese artist Sano di Pietro, and depicts the Madonna and Child in splendid gold and blue dresses. According to local legend, the panel was discovered by four Casteldelpianesi soldiers returning from the Sorano campaign in 1430. The street that starts from Piazza della Madonna is Corso Nasini, named after the well-known painters who lived here. The best shops in the city are also located here, on the ground floor of the picturesque 16th and 17th century buildings.
THE HISTORIC CENTER
Porta Pianese marks the beginning of the old city. In the Middle Ages, the noblest and richest families built their palaces in the nearby Piazza Colonna. The largest and most beautiful, Palazzo Nerucci, juts out onto Corso Nasini, and was built by the local nobleman Domenico Nerucci in 1554. Nerucci’s Latin name, Domenicus Nerutius, is still carved above the architrave of a window. Inside there is a collection of art (on request, free of charge), a small collection of landscapes dating back mostly to the 17th and 18th centuries donated by the rich Florentine Giuseppe Vegni. The most important piece of the collection is a self-portrait
by the Venetian artist Rosalba Carriera (1675-1757). Female artists rarely painted self-portraits, but Carriera was an exception and did some well
four, one for each season. The one exhibited here represents autumn and depicts the painter looking at herself reflected in a mirror. The remaining rooms of the gallery are dedicated to Edo Cei. By definition, Cei is a surrealist, but his early works are popular caricatures and promotional posters that capture daily life on Mount Amiata in the post-war era. CEI’s subsequent works were inspired by events in Italy’s cultural history. In Till Love Do You Part, a priest sews together a pair made of leather, a reference to the 1970 divorce law.
Returning to the road, follow Via della Basilica to Piazza dell’Arcipretura to visit the Church of San Leonardo, the oldest in the city, first mentioned in 1188 and still in possession of its original façade. In the square there is also the small 19th century Teatrino Amiatino, which hosts a busy program of concerts throughout the year. In the square there is also the small 19th century Teatrino Amiatino, which hosts a busy program of concerts throughout the year. Inside, on the right side, there is a polychrome wooden statue from 1634 representing the Madonna of Loreto. In the dim light, the statue’s skin is opalescent. Outside, some crosses in the shape of a Tau carved into the facade perhaps allude to a society of Templars believed to have existed on Mount Amiata during the Middle Ages.
It is also possible to visit the Amiatino Theater.
CURIOSITY'
THE NOSES
This dynasty of talented painters began with Francesco Nasini (1621-1695), but was made famous by his son Giuseppe Nicola Nasini (1657-1736), who surpassed his brothers with his baroque masterpieces. Father and son differed greatly in their artistic styles.
Giuseppe was known for his refined use of color, while Francesco preferred to focus on facial expressions. However, the works of the Nasini adorn churches and museums throughout Italy. Giuseppe’s most famous work, the Allegory of the Morals and Virtues of the Medici, is exhibited today in the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
CHESTNUTS
Castel del Piano chestnuts are so good that they have also received a nod of appreciation from the Catholic Church. In fact, according to a local legend, it is said that the first chestnut trees in the area were planted by the monks of the San Salvatore Abbey. Chestnuts became so popular that the monks started growing them. In the hardest times, the Amiatini used chestnuts for everything from fuel to food. Today the Casteldelpianesi will tell you that a meal without chestnuts is not worth consuming. Among the countless courses based on chestnuts there are chestnut polenta, chestnut jam or simply the chestnut itself, roasted over an open fire and served with sweet new red wine.
NEAR CASTEL DEL PIANO
The Piero Bonacina Art Garden (Montegiovi; open every day; 0564 969602; free) is a small but spectacular art garden. Affectionately called “Arte e Parte”, it is the life work of Piero Bonacina, an artist with a humble and honest aesthetic whose work has been exhibited around the world, from New York to London.
Bonacina works primarily with steel and scrap metal, but her finest pieces are carved from tree trunks into sculptures that are so intricate and fluid, they defy the material from which they are made. Her greatest inspiration is man, but representation often twists into the shape of a woman or the intertwined bodies of two lovers. Bonacina often invites visitors to help him finish painting some of his latest creations.
EVENTS
8 September
Every year, the four districts of Castel del Piano compete around Piazza Garibaldi in a horse race that dates back to 1402. The entire city is decorated with the colors of its neighborhoods and food, and the pre-race celebrations of food and wine are just a taste of the post-race celebrations, with even more food and wine. Often the jockeys who have raced here go on to compete in the famous Palio di Siena.
