A
Grosseto
and surrounding towns, farmland gives way to fashionable streets. This is the cosmopolitan Maremma, of which Grosseto is the capital: where beaches attract wealthy personalities and nightlife flourishes after dark. But there is much more to see in this region than postcard landscapes. Its beaches, marshes and natural parks are so idyllic that they have inspired scores of artists, such as writer Italo Calvino and actress Sophia Loren.
Grosseto and the surrounding villages are symbolic of 21st-century Maremma: a modern twist on country life. A taste for cultural activities makes the museums, theaters and art galleries in the area some of the best in the province.
If the call of the wilderness is too strong to resist, a day trip to the wetlands of the
Maremma Park
or of the
Diaccia Botrona National Park
is the perfect balm.

FEATURED: The cowboys

I
Butteri
are Tuscany’s version of cowboys. For generations they have raised Maremma cows in the most hostile environment. Life in the wild makes livestock of a much better quality than farmed cattle, but it is hard and lonely work for these herdsmen to care for them. You can get a rare glimpse of the work of the cowboys at the Alberese Regional Farm or in the Maremma Park. Easy to spot because of their large, wide-brimmed hats and velvet jackets, they wield a mazzarella, a curved cane used to guide their animals. Local legend tells of an encounter between cowboys and Buffalo Bill in 1890. The American cowboy is said to have challenged the locals to a show of skill, and when he lost, he fled without paying the agreed-upon pledge.

FEATURED: Aquacotta

Maremma’s most famous soup has humble roots. Lunch in the fields was a bucket of water where whatever vegetables were on hand were boiled. When the province became more prosperous, a poached egg was added to the dish, along with a slice of bread and a piece of pecorino cheese. Acquacotta is the symbol of Maremma cuisine: in Grosseto, it is still traditionally served with chard and tomatoes, while on Mount Amiata, porcini mushrooms give it a touch of earthy flavor.

NOT TO BE MISSED:

– A sunset walk among the flamingos and other birds of the
Diaccia Botrona
, 1 hour.
– A journey through the life and death of the Etruscan megalopolis
Vetulonia
at the
“Isidoro Falchi” Civic Museum.
, 2 hours.
– A visit to the church of San Leopoldo in
Follonica
, with its inimitable wrought-iron facade, 20 minutes.
– The discovery of the wild
Maremma Park
with a guided tour, from one hour to a full day.
– Hoarding local cheeses and cold cuts at the weekly market in
Grosseto
in the Market Square on Thursday mornings.

ITINERARY

If you have a weekend available to spend in
Grosseto
, start early in the capital with a typical breakfast of croissant and cappuccino. Then explore the Maremma Museum of Archaeology and Art or the Museum of Natural History, or both. During lunch on the Carducci course, choose whether to spend the afternoon at the
Maremma Park
with a guided tour, relax on the beach in
Alberese
or continue straight on to
Castiglione della Pescaia
and the
Diaccia Botrona
. Stay overnight in Castiglione della Pescaia to enjoy the lively nightlife by the sea. The next day visit Vetulonia for a full immersion in what was once one of Etruria’s richest and most spectacular cities, or stay on the coast and head to luxurious Punta Ala and Follonica for a day of shopping and admiring local handicrafts; end the
day with a walk along the promenade of Viale Italia, ice cream or roasted chestnuts in hand depending on the season.