ARCIDOSSO
Everything in Arcidosso, from its imposing castle to its rough stone houses, fits into the mountain landscape as if it had always been there and destined to remain there forever.
Its silence, especially on winter afternoons, is so absolute that you can hear a dog barking and see cats fleeing. The origins of Arcidosso are controversial. Some say the city began as a Bronze Age settlement, others say it was a refuge for the Christians of the Roman Empire and others are certain it was a den of ferocious barbarians. The most recent theory, formulated by the poet Giovan Domenico Peri, tells of mountain villages built by the survivors of the Etruscan cities destroyed in Maremma. However, the historical conjecture ends in the 12th century, when the Aldobrandeschi built one of their fortresses. Arcidosso derives from the Latin Arx et dorsum, literally ‘fortress on the back of the mountain’. This fortress protected the inhabitants of Arcidosso from the expansionist aims of the Republic of Siena until it was finally conquered in 1331 thanks to 4,000 infantry and 400 knights. Today the beauty of the city unfolds from the Aldobrandesca fortress through a labyrinth of cobblestone streets and fig trees.
Arcidosso is not flashy or elegant, but its popular roots have inspired dozens of Italian writers, from Giacomo Barzellotti to Cecco Angiolieri. There is a sense of mysticism here, born out of whispers of Knights Templar cults and fueled by the experience of prophet David Lazzaretti and, later, a group of Tibetan monks. When you leave Arcidosso, you enter the Mount Amiata Wildlife Park.
Tourist Office: Piazza Indipendenza 30 (0564 968084)
WILDLIFE MUSEUM
D.LAZZARETTI MUSEUM
WHAT TO SEE:
Arcidosso is not a very easy center to navigate, and you will have to go back often to visit all its monuments. The best place to start is at the edge of town, in front of the temple-shaped War Memorial. This is where David Lazzaretti was killed in 1878. Follow Corso Toscana to reach the Poggiolo springs. This neo-Gothic style fountain, which looks like a miniature cast of an iron cathedral, was made by Ilva of Follonica in 1833. Take a detour to Pero park, a picturesque garden complete with a small river and stone bridge. Then follow via Cavour to discover the symbolic, historical and geographical heart of Arcidosso, namely the Rocca. Only the sloping base of this castle is 1200 years old and dates back to the Aldobrandeschi era. The rest were added by the Sienese but, while there are hundreds of similar fortresses throughout the Maremma, this one stands out because it truly resembles a castle. Most of the lower wall is covered in graffiti which dates back to the 12th century. Many believe that these signs, which include writings in Gothic and Carolinian minuscule, are the traces of an underground movement, heretical and most likely linked to the Knights Templar. During the summer months, the Aldobrandesca fortress hosts contemporary art exhibitions and its two towers are open to visitors. The simplest way to reach the other half of the historic center of Arcidosso is to go around the fortress and follow Via Cavour backwards to Porta di Castello. Then take Corso Toscana in the direction of Porta di Mezzo. Here you are never far from some small mansion or a magnificent view. The Church of San Leonardo is located in via San Leonardo. Only the right nave and the external wall belong to the original church, built in the 12th century. Inside, the highlight is the Beheading of St. John (1588) by Francesco Vanni. Vanni fused Roman mannerism and the Baroque and became one of Siena’s most famous pre-Baroque artists.
MUSEUMS OF ARCIDOSSO
Both museums in Arcidosso are in the Aldobrandeschi fortress.
The Visitor Center of the Wildlife Park (on request; 0564969602; free) is the reference point for the largest natural park on Mount Amiata. There’s not much to see, except for aerial snapshots and a collection of minerals and mushrooms. The David Lazzaretti Study Center (opening hours vary; 0564 966438; €3), which is right next door, is much more interesting. Known as the “prophet of Amiata,” David Lazzaretti had apocalyptic visions that ultimately led him to found the Jurisdavid Church, a sect that preached a mystical, socialist utopia.
This museum offers a fascinating look not only at the story of Lazzaretti, but at the state of extreme poverty of the Mount Amiata area in the 19th century. The most interesting parts of the collection are the photographs and paintings. All the key moments in Lazzaretti’s life and his visions have been painstakingly portrayed by Filippo Imperiuzzi, a former Catholic friar and the first high priest of the Church of Lazzaretti.
CURIOSITY'
THE BEER FROM HERE
If we were anywhere else in Maremma, beer would not even be mentioned, but on Monte Amiata it is the favorite drink. Arcidosso is famous for its chestnut beer and home to the artisan company Birra Amiata. All 14 of its beers are among the best in Italy and are available in local shops. “La Contessa” is undoubtedly the best, with a floral aroma and sophisticated tones reminiscent of a good wine.
EVENTS
Half October
Monte Amiata’s favorite chestnuts are celebrated in a number of festivals throughout the year, but this is the largest. For two weekends, food stands and wineries prepare a variety of sweet and savory chestnut-based dishes.
Alterations from Gustare Festival
End of July
Arcidosso celebrates its artistic and cultural heritage and its beer with lots of delicious snacks and live music.
