PORTO ERCOLE
When lazy summer days make you crave the sea, locals head to Porto Ercole. This ancient port city has the best sea of the Argentario at its feet and some of the most beautiful beaches of the Maremma.
Porto Ercole, one of the Maremma villages most famous for its nightlife
In the 3rd century, Porto Ercole or Portus Herculius was an important Roman port, but its defense was a problem that its inhabitants never managed to solve. After centuries of pirate attacks, the country finally experienced a period of peace under rule
Spanish of the State of the Garrisons. Today the streets of the historic center are incredibly narrow, built high on the cliffs to escape the dangers from the sea. Try to avoid visiting this part of Porto Ercole in the early afternoon when the heat makes walking tiring. Instead the modern part of Porto Ercole is located right on the seashore. The waterfront is a favorite gathering place for locals to escape the heat. The inhabitants of Porto Ercole are used to chic shops, luxurious boats and the good life. They are also extremely demanding when it comes to their beaches, which they swear are the best in the Maremma. To add a touch of mystery to this paradise, Caravaggio is believed to have died here in 1610, but the details surrounding his death are still unclear. As in most seaside towns, parking can be a problem: the best thing to do is to leave your car on the hill just above the old town and walk towards the seafront.
NOT TO BE MISSED
CHURCH OF SANT'ERASMO
GOVERNOR'S PALACE
TO BE SEEN
The historic center of Porto Ercole begins at Porta Senese in Piazza Ricasoli.
The arch bears a commemorative plaque dedicated to Caravaggio, who died here under mysterious circumstances in 1610. Follow the street towards the spacious Piazza Santa Barbara. On your left you will see the Governor’s Palace, built in the early 16th century by the Sienese banker Agostino Chigi, but then used as the official residence of the Spanish governor. According to local legend,
the travertine building is connected to the nearby fortress by a series of underground tunnels. In Piazza Santa Barbara you can enjoy a beautiful view of the port and the coast.
If you want to visit the Church of Sant’Erasmo, take a deep breath and get ready for a trek; in fact the church sits at the top of a series of narrow flights of stairs starting from the Porta Senese. Sant’Erasmo is the patron saint of sailors and in fact this church has a decidedly seafaring appearance, with its white walls and exposed beams. Inside are four notable tombs, which belong to Spanish captains and governors who fell in heroic deeds in the late 17th century.
Continue climbing to reach La Rocca. The fortress of Porto Ercole can be visited on request (0564 811979), otherwise you can admire it from the outside; it is the oldest fortress on the Silver Coast, built by the Orsini Counts in the 14th century on a pre-existing Aldobrandesca tower. Above the arch is the beautiful coat of arms of the Spanish royal family, bearing cornucopias filled with flowers and statuettes on either side. Inside, some of the original military architecture is still visible, although the fortress has been reused over the years, first as a prison for political prisoners during the Second World War and then as a holiday home by the American poet Robert Penn Warren. Warren is said to have written his Pulitzer Prize-winning poems here.
From the fortress the view of the surrounding coast is magnificent.
CURIOSITY'
Caravaggio
The story of the Baroque painter Michelangelo Merisi da Caravaggio is one of the most sensational scandals that have ever shaken the Maremma. Until recently it was just a local legend, embellished with the mystery and intrigue that the inhabitants of Porto Ercole love so much. Then, in 2011, a team of scientists did some DNA tests on the bones found in an unmarked grave near the Church of Sant’Erasmo and confirmed they were those of the ill-fated painter. The reason for his visit is still unknown; according to legend, Caravaggio was returning from Naples in 1609, when he was recognized by armed men in the pay of the Knights of Malta. Beaten and left for dead, Caravaggio embarked for Tuscany, but was arrested by the papal guards and forced to bribe them in order to escape. Finally, now seriously ill, he reached Porto Ercole; he is believed to have died in the city hospital, but locals like to think he died on the nearby Feniglia beach. According to hospital records, the death occurred due to an “unknown disease”, most likely malaria. The painter has become a legendary figure in Porto Ercole and a couple of monuments have been built in his honour.
AROUND PORTO ERCOLE
SPANISH FORTS
The Spaniards invested a lot of time and money to defend the Argentario coast, as it represented the ideal starting point for sea voyages to Naples, where their king ruled.
Fort Stella is the first and most beautiful of the three 16th century Spanish forts located near Porto Ercole, and it is also the only one open to the public (Loc. Forte Stella, Monte Argentario; April-June 5 and
September: weekends: 10:30-12:30 and 16:00-18:00 / July-August: every day: 18:00-22:00; 0564 811979; full/reduced: €2/€1). To reach it, follow the signs for Porto Ercole on the panoramic road. You can wander freely around the first floor of the fort before visiting the sentinels’ walkway and the terrace where the view will leave you breathless. The other two fortresses of Porto Ercole, the fort Filippo and the fort of Santa Caterina, are closed but the outside can be seen from the historic centre.
EVENTS
Late April/early May
For an entire weekend Porto Ercole is transformed into a pirate bay with costumes, themed parades, fish grills and medieval-style music by the sea. The city is often crowded during this event, so bring some snacks or book in advance to enjoy the pirate-themed menu at a local restaurant. Don’t miss the after-dinner entertainment, when pirate gangs invade Porto Ercole in a show of fireworks and cannon fire.
