SORANO
One of the three tuff towns in southern Maremma
The second City of Tufo is an oasis of stone in a sea of green.
Over the centuries, three rivers have carved deep furrows into the lower levels of the cliff that supports Sorano, so that many of its houses now hang dangerously above the depths of the Lente river valley. The city probably takes its name from the Etruscan-Faliscan god Pater Soranus who ran with the wolves and spent eternity hidden in the mountains. It’s an apt name for a city built on an isolated cliff. The best way to appreciate Sorano is to randomly wander its narrow streets. The city is too small and narrow for you to run the risk of getting lost. Each street has its own character and offers an astonishing view of the surrounding wild landscape. This countryside is full of necropolises and prehistoric ruins which can be explored (ask the tourist office; 0564 633099). Sorano also has its hot springs: although not as famous as those of Saturnia, these springs are just as hot, and flow from an underground source at 36°C all year round.
What to see in Sorano
Sorano begins right in front of the imposing Orsini fortress in via Cavour.
Despite its name, the fortress was built by the Aldobrandeschi, who are said to have had a residence for every day of the year.
Today, the Orsini fortress is an important example of medieval and Renaissance military architecture and perhaps the best preserved fortress in the Maremma. The historic center of Sorano is accessed through a stone arch, which from a distance appears large and welcoming – but it is an optical illusion intended to deceive the invading armies – and which opens onto a bright courtyard. To your left is the bastion of San Marco, used in the 14th and 15th centuries to make gunpowder from the white moss that grew on the damp walls of the fortress. In fact, only the top of the fortress is visible, while the rest descends up to 15 meters underground in a labyrinth of tunnels built by Niccolò IV Orsini in 1552. Niccolò is remembered as a cruel and bloodthirsty ruler: under his reign,
the already impregnable Orsini fortress was further strengthened. The tunnels have never been used and between 1558 and 1608 the Orsinis sold everything to the Medici. Since then the Orsini family dismantled its previous glory in debauchery and slowly disappeared into anonymity. And yet, Sorano remains one of the few towns in the Maremma that has never been invaded. The tunnels are the most interesting part of the Orsini fortress and can only be seen with a guided tour. The tour will also take you to the Palazzo Comitale, the Orsini’s stately home which now houses the Museum of the Middle Ages and the Renaissance. Inside there are some works of art and ceramics from the Renaissance period. The museum tower was built to serve as a love nest for Niccolò, who used it to take advantage of the local women. It is said that he died when he fell from a cliff while chasing one that had escaped him. On the walls of the tower you can see beautiful frescoes and also the score of a madrigal written by a 16th century Bolognese musician. Wandering through Sorano, one cannot help but notice that all roads lead to the Masso Leopoldino: this terrace, built on a spur of natural tuff, was perfectly leveled already in the 19th century and was reinforced to resemble a battleship. On clear days, it is the best place to admire the beauty of the elaborate stones of Sorano in contrast with the wild valley; one can also distinguish the small caves dug into the tuff cliffs by the Etruscans and used as warehouses. To reach the Church of San Niccolò you have to walk down the hill from the Orsini fortress to Piazza Busatti. The church was dedicated to San Nicola da Bari in 1290. The pope of the time was very devoted to this saint and the Countess of Sovana Margherita Aldobrandeschi was linked to the pope himself, which explains why this saint is also venerated here. The lack of interior decoration suggests that Margherita lost interest in the work before it was finished.
Baths of Sorano
The Sorano Spa, located in the splendid Tuscan Maremma, is an oasis of relaxation and tranquility. Surrounded by a large park and set among breathtaking views, these spas are a short distance from the picturesque villages of SOrano, Pitigliano and Sovana. The thermal complex includes a large thermal swimming pool with covered area, a sports swimming pool open in the summer, a wellness centre, a restaurant and an elegant residence. A path in the park leads to the Bagno dei Frati, a tub used in the 1400s by the friars who lived in the nearby parish church.
The water of the Terme di Sorano is bicarbonate-magnesium-calcium and flows from the source at a temperature of 37.4°C. This water is unique in Italy for the treatment of dermatological diseases, in particular psoriasis and dermatitis. Water-based thermal therapies have anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antipruritic, sebum-regulating, antioxidant, keratoplastic and keratolytic effects. Thermal waters are also particularly suitable for regulating skin circulation.
The Terme di Sorano are open every day, with different times depending on the season. During the summer period, from April to October, the daily hours are from 10:00 to 19:00, while the afternoon hours are from 14:00 to 19:00. During the winter period, from November to March, the daily hours are from 10:00 to 18:00, and the afternoon hours are from 14:00 to 18:00. Entrance prices vary according to the day and time.
NOT TO BE MISSED
ARCHAEOLOGICAL PARK
Sorano photo gallery
Between curiosity and history...
The Countess of Sovana was the last heir of the Aldobrandeschi and lived a life resembling a Shakespearean tragedy. She married five times in a promiscuous and desperate attempt to protect herself and her territory. The brief marriage with a cousin of hers earned her not only excommunication, but also the invasion of the Sienese, who angrily took away all her domains. After another failed marriage, Margherita disappeared.
Also discover the Etruscan Cave Streets.
How to get to Sorano
Sorano is a municipality in the province of Grosseto, 89 kilometers from the capital, 156 kilometers from Rome, 180 kilometers from Florence and 475 kilometers from Milan.
How to reach Sorano by car:
- From the north: Autostrada del Sole until the exit for Firenze Certosa, then the motorway junction until Siena south, continue towards Rome, follow the S.S. Cassia for 70 kilometers and exit at Sorano
- From the north: Autostrada del Sole to the Chiusi/Chianciano exit, continue towards Sarteano, then Radicofani, Roma, continue along the S.S. Cassia in the direction of Rome, exit at Sorano
- From the south: Autostrada del Sole, exit Orte, then motorway junction for Viterbo, follow the exit for Siena, continue for Valentano, then follow the signs for Pitigliano and Sorano
How to reach Sorano by train:
The main railway stations are those of Orvieto, 48 kilometers away, and Albinia, 60 kilometers away. From the train stations you can continue by bus.
How to reach Sorano by plane:
The main airports are those of Florence, 233 kilometers away, Pisa, 249 kilometers away and Rome-Fiumicino, 154 kilometers away.
Where to eat in Sorano
If you are in Sorano, you absolutely cannot miss the opportunity to savor the excellent traditional cuisine by choosing from the restaurants and inns of the Tuscan village. Whether they are in the countryside, perhaps attached to some characteristic farmhouse, or hidden in the alleys of the historic center, we are sure that the food and wine experience will surprise you and give you a moment of taste and relaxation! Let’s start right from the countryside around Sorano, where we find the Agriturismo Aia del Tufo, an organic farm where you can taste the traditional peasant dishes of the Maremma, among the dishes that you cannot miss, the homemade pasta, the white wild boar and the lamb with buglione, the homemade bread cooked in the oven is also excellent wood, Podere Poggio La Mezzadria – tel. 3290805559. Always immersed in the greenery of the Maremma countryside, the Agriristoro Focacceria La Dogana cultivates the philosophy of the short supply chain and the km0 menu, the vegetables are produced on the farm, the meats come from farmers in the area, Strada Provinciale Pian della Madonna – tel. 3396724645. In the heart of the village of Sorano, nestled between singular alleys and spectacular arches, there is the Da Fidalma Restaurant, a historic family-run restaurant in Sorano, here the flavors are the authentic ones of the past, from the first courses to the second courses of meat, a real treat! Piazza Busatti 6 – tel. 0564633056, la Ottava Rima winery offers simple dishes, with great attention to the short supply chain, all accompanied by excellent wines, the ideal solution for those who appreciate the simple authenticity of a good platter of cheeses and cold cuts, a first course and, why not, a tasty fondue, Via del Borgo 25 – tel. 3498024196. At the Hosteria del Borgo you will find traditional Tuscan cuisine and a family welcome, with a wonderful view of the Lente river valley, Via del Borgo 42/44 – tel. 3332042110. We conclude with a flourish with the Cantina dei Sapori, a welcoming restaurant that offers typical local cuisine, tasting of typical products such as cold cuts and cheeses, soups and bruschetta, Via della Madonnina 2/4 – tel. 0564633748.
Where to sleep in Sorano
Events
Between Tufo and Beer
Last week of August
When culture, beer and good food meet, a party can only be a success. Just ask the hundreds of people who attend this festival every year: among the things not to be missed are the exquisite local and international beers and music from around the world.
