PORTO SANTO STEFANO
Porto Santo Stefano, the Pearl of Argentario
Famous for its restaurants on the seafront, Porto Santo Stefano is not one of the oldest villages in the Maremma, it began to become a power in the 15th century, under the Republic of Siena, and lived through the era of invasions by Pirates and Saracens and the domination of the Spanish State of Presidia.
Porto Santo Stefano is considered the more popular counterpart of nearby Porto Ercole. Although it is twice as large, the port city is not in fact permeated by the chic and exclusive atmosphere of its neighbor, but instead has a relaxed lifestyle and a particularly important culinary reputation. Every afternoon, generations of fishermen sell their catch of the day at the Lungomare dei Navigatori. And every night, the chefs from nearby restaurants use just as much fish as a topping for their homemade spaghetti. After dinner it is traditional to walk along the seafront: for locals, it is an opportunity to meet up with old friends, for children it is an excuse to spend some more time playing. For tourists, it’s the only time of day when you feel like you’re truly part of a lively seaside town. Porto Santo Stefano is famous for the Palio Marinaro, an annual rowing race said to have started to train local fishermen, who often encountered brutal Turkish pirates at sea. Porto Santo Stefano’s beaches aren’t the best on the coast, but they’re close to town and perfect if you want to take a quick dip off the rocky outcrops. Porto Santo Stefano is also the departure point for ferries to the islands of the Tuscan Archipelago.
NOT TO BE MISSED
CHURCH OF SANTO STEFANO
ACQUARIUM
SEA MUSEUM
SPANISH FORTRESS
SEAFRONT
What to see in Porto Santo Stefano
La bellezza di Porto Santo Stefano è tutta concentrata intorno al porto. Behind the Lungomare dei Navigatori the bright yellow, red and orange buildings follow the line of the hills. Most were built in the 60s and 70s, when the city was a destination for the Italian jetset. Today many of them still show the architectural features of these decades, such as the showy stones and marble colonnades. At the beginning of the promenade there is a modern monument by the artist Egidio Ambrosetti, dedicated to the fallen at sea.
On the other side of the street there is theMediterranean Aquarium of Argentario (July-September: 10:30-12:30 and 16:00-20:00 / October-May: Tuesday-Friday: 15:00-19:00, weekends: 10:30-12:30 and 15:00 00-19:00, closed Mondays; 0564 815933; full/reduced: €5/€2), an underwater world with hundreds of Mediterranean marine and plant species, and Carlotta, a large and beautiful brown grouper who loves to be caressed. Returning to the seafront, you will find Porto Santo Stefano’s best shops and fish restaurants.
Go to Corso Umberto I to see the Church of Santo Stefano Protomartire with its luminous Baroque façade; it is dedicated to Santo Stefano, patron saint of the city and first martyr of Christianity.
The original 18th century church was blown up by retreating German soldiers in 1944, and the new one was consecrated on Christmas Day in 1950 in memory of those fallen in war thanks to the indestructible spirit of Santostefanesi who survived and brought their city back to its ancient beauty. Follow via S. Paolo up to the Spanish fortress, one of the few Maremma fortresses not to have been a Guide to the Tuscan Maremma 3. the Argentario coast – 135
built by the Aldobrandeschi. It was in fact built by the Spanish in 1605 and is currently home to the Maritime Museum (April-June: weekends: 11:00-13:00 and 16:00-19:00 / June-September: every day: 18: 30- 11.30am / September-December: weekends: 10.30am-12.30pm and 3.30pm-6.30pm; 0564 811970; adult/reduced: €2/€1).
This small museum is dedicated to local shipowners, displays navigation tools and collects local stories and legends narrated by the fishermen themselves. In the permanent exhibition, entitled Submerged Memories, you can see Roman amphorae used to transport wine, water and oil, inside the model of an ancient ship. In another section, it is possible to see the cargo of an ancient Greek or Etruscan ship which includes four precious flutes. The panoramic road that connects Porto Santo Stefano to Porto Ercole is also a must see.
The districts of Porto Santo Stefano
Porto Santo Stefano is divided into four districts: Croce, Fortezza, Pilarella and Valle. Rione Croce is the historic center of the town, characterized by stone alleys, ups and downs, and the parish church dedicated to the Protomartyr Stefano. The Fortezza district, placed to protect the other three districts and headed by the Spanish Fortress, offers spectacular views of the sea and the port. The Pilarella district, born above a source of drinking water, hosts some of the most beautiful villas on the promontory and the most popular restaurants and bars. Finally, the Valle district is the industrial area of the town, where the dock and shipyards are located. Each district has its own peculiarities and traditions, making Porto Santo Stefano a unique and fascinating place.
Porto Santo Stefano events
Palio Marinaro dell’Argentario
August 15th
Four gozzi, the traditional local fishing boats, compete in a four-kilometre regatta that dates back to 1937. For one magical August afternoon, the engines are silent and an excited crowd gathers along the harbor to follow the challenge. When the race is over, fans throw themselves into the sea and swim fully clothed to be the first to embrace the men who earned their ward’s victory.
