CAPALBIO
I am a happy Capalbio, defended by the Sienese lion by which I am protected, and by these first walls restored at its own expense and by the other walls that surround the first ones, running the years one thousand four hundred and four beyond which the world had turned ten years and several times two
(Engraving on the Porta Senese)
Visit Capalbio in Maremma
Capalbio it is the last city in the hinterland of Maremma, and is located right on the border with the Lazio: it is also one of the few cities to be surrounded by a 15th century wall, giving the possibility to follow in the footsteps of the soldiers of the Republic of Siena and walk along the entire parapet. When war broke out between France and Spain in the 16th century, Siena allied itself with its historical enemies, the Medici, only to be able to conquer Capalbio. With the Medici in power, Capalbio was the only city on the Argentario coast that did not end up in Spanish hands, and it went from being one of the most important producers of cork to being one of Maremma’s best-known tourist attractions. There is a lot of shade along the walls and the people of Capalbia love to sit and admire a view so spectacular that it has earned the city international recognition.
Capalbio is also the cultural center of the Maremma. Alongside the cafes and trendy clubs, the kitsch boutiques of the historic center sell exquisite art objects made in Maremma. Furthermore, every year the city hosts a rich program of art events, including the Capalbio Libri festivals.
NOT TO BE MISSED
CHURCH OF SAN NICOLA
COLLACCHIONI PALACE
ORATORY
WHAT TO SEE:
The first thing you will see in Capalbio is the eye-catching mosaic backside of Nanà in Piazza Carlo Giordano. The statue is by Niki de Saint Phalle and is a taste of what you can see in the nearby Tarot Garden.
Continue along via IV Novembre towards the historic center. Capalbio is surrounded by two 15th century walls: the first runs along the Porta Senese, with a breathtaking view of the hills of Ansedonia and Lake Burano. The second internal wall can be seen in Piazza Magenta, a picturesque square overlooked by some of the most beautiful houses in Capalbio.
Follow via Vittorio Emanuele II up to the Church of San Nicola: only the capitals remain of the original 12th century church. Next to it there is an arch decorated with the marble face of the Roman emperor Hadrian, who probably came from the nearby ancient city of Cosa (2nd century BC). Inside the church, the carved capitals are a rare example of medieval architecture. The frescoes are from the Sienese school and date back to the 15th-16th century: they depict Mary and Jesus in different ways, from the dark and suffering one to the angelic and majestic one.
Go down via Collacchioni to Palazzo Collacchioni: this 13th-century fortress was bought and renovated by Capalbio’s favorite son, Senator Giovanni Battista Collacchioni, at the end of the 19th century. The €1 ticket is worth the visit, even just to see the frescoes that cover the walls from floor to ceiling and the fin de siècle furniture. In the Collacchioni living room there is a Conrad Graf fortepiano from 1823, which was played by Giacomo Puccini at a time when he lived here. Climb the stairs to the lookout tower for spectacular views.
The Beaches of Capalbio
Capalbio is famous for its fascinating beaches, including Chiarone and Ultima Spiaggia. Chiarone is a beach of fine, golden sand, bathed by crystal clear waters and surrounded by lush Mediterranean vegetation. It is an ideal place for those seeking tranquility and contact with nature. Ultima Spiaggia, on the other hand, is known for its lively atmosphere and excellent services, including restaurants, bars and leisure activities. Both beaches offer breathtaking views and an unforgettable bathing experience, making Capalbio an unmissable destination for sea lovers.
EVENTS
Capalbio Art Cinema
August
Capalbio Art Cinema Estate, first two weeks of August A vibrant celebration of visual and performing art. This festival brings together local and international artists for film screenings, talks, exhibitions and concerts.
Capalbio International Short Film Festival
in mid-July
An internationally renowned festival for emerging artists and directors in the field of short films. In the past, it has also welcomed the likes of John Malkovich. Tickets for each screening are €6 for adults, €4.50 for students and free for children.
