Porta Romana
The Porta Romana is an ancient gate that opens on the southern side of Saturnia.
It’s not easy to find. You have to head towards the fortress, which unfortunately is private property, and go behind it Church of Santa Maria Maddalena.
But it’s worth the return trip. The arch is located at the foot of Via Clodia, one of the last remaining Roman streets not to be covered over or replaced by medieval contemporaries.
Locals say you can follow the Via Clodia through the Maremma countryside to Sorano . I’m not sure if that’s true because I’ve never tried it, but the two cities were connected during the Roman Empire.
The arch itself is part of an even older wall which, although impossible to see today, dates back to the 2nd century BC. when the Romans created their own settlement not far from the pre-existing Etruscan one.
Historians believe this arch was one of the four original Roman gates. However, it is now the only one left and was partially restored in 82 BC. as part of the Roman effort to expand the walls.
It underwent further restorations during the Middle Ages and again when the Sienese took over in the 15th century.
In addition to being incredibly beautiful to look at, the arch is essentially a history book in stone. The attentive eye can distinguish the different stylistic elements added by Roman, medieval and Sienese hands.
But if you’re not that good, don’t despair. The arch is hidden in a lovely and quiet corner of Saturnia, shaded by tall oak trees. Just sitting here will take you back to the times of the Roman Empire.